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Roatan West End Wall Scuba Diving: Exploring the Marine Life of Roatan

Sep 13
12 min read

Roatan is one of those places where the diving can make you forget about everything happening above the surface.

The water is warm. The reefs are alive. And around every section of coral there is the possibility of finding something interesting.

During one of my dives along the West End Wall in Roatan, Honduras, I encountered a collection of Caribbean reef species that made this dive particularly memorable. There were lionfish, a Caribbean spiny lobster, schoolmaster snapper, a Caribbean king crab, and one very tiny fish that I had never seen before.

That tiny fish ended up being the highlight.

After 28 years of diving, I spotted my first juvenile smooth trunkfish (Lactophrys triqueter).

It was a small discovery in a very big ocean, but those are the encounters that keep me coming back.

West Bay Beach: A Caribbean Base for Diving and Relaxation

West Bay Beach is one of the places that makes Roatan so appealing.

The beach is beautiful, the water is clear and inviting, and there is plenty to do without losing the relaxed Caribbean atmosphere. Restaurants and beach bars stretch along the shoreline, giving the area a casual feel that makes it easy to spend an entire day there.

The water is fabulous.

You can swim, snorkel, dive, take a water taxi to West End, or simply find a place on the beach and enjoy the Caribbean.

Empty tropical beach with palm trees, calm blue water, and boats under a cloudy gray sky
West Bay Beach, Roatan

For scuba divers, West Bay is especially convenient because several dive sites are easily accessible from the area. West End is also just a short water taxi ride away.

That makes West Bay Beach a great place to combine a diving vacation with everything else Roatan has to offer.

For me, that combination is part of the attraction.

Dive during the day.

Eat and drink well afterward.

A cold Barena, one of my favorite Honduran beers, tastes especially good on the beaches of Roatan after a day underwater. The beer takes a little of the edge off the heat, the diving, and the noise of the world above the surface. It pleasantly dulls the senses just enough to let the day settle where it belongs.

Then do it all again.

That works for me.

Staying at Las Rocas Resort and Dive Center

For this trip, I stayed at Las Rocas Resort and Dive Center, located right on West Bay Beach.

Las Rocas is rustic, but it has a certain charm that fits the setting. The rooms are basic but comfortable, and the dive shop is basic as well. Some of the equipment is older, but it was functional and did what it needed to do.

The biggest advantage is the location.

The resort sits directly on the beach, so the Caribbean is literally right outside your door. West End is only minutes away by water taxi, making it easy to get to the dive sites around the western end of Roatan.

There was another reason I liked spending time at Las Rocas.

Happy hour.

The Las Rocas happy hour runs from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m., with a buy-one-get-one-free deal on local beers such as Barena.

I took advantage of it every day I was there.

It was a good deal, but the beer was only part of it.

The real luxury was the view.

I could sit out on the decks at Las Rocas, look across the Caribbean, and let the afternoon disappear. After a day of diving, there was not much more I needed.

A cold Barena.

A good view.

The ocean below.

I spent two evenings there during happy hour watching the sunset.

Roatan puts on a pretty good show when the sun starts going down. The sky changes slowly, the water catches the last light, and the day seems to lose some of its urgency.

With a cold beer in your hand, it is easy to let that happen.

The diving had already done its work for the day.

The sunset finished the job.

When scuba diving is the main reason for your trip, staying somewhere that puts you this close to the water makes life pretty simple.

Wake up.

Dive.

Eat.

Drink.

Repeat.

That works for me.

The West End Wall is the type of dive site that rewards a diver who slows down and looks closely.

Located around the western end of Roatan, the site is part of an area known as The Point, where the underwater terrain changes from the shallower reef plateau into the wall. Currents can move through this area and help bring large schools of reef fish over the structure.

That current is part of what makes the West End Wall interesting.

Depending on conditions and exactly where the dive begins, it can be a relaxed drift or a more energetic ride along the reef. The wall, cuts, coral formations, and deeper water create plenty of places for marine life to gather.

You do not necessarily need to spend the entire dive staring into the blue.

Some of the best discoveries can be hiding right in front of you.

That is exactly what happened to me.

Roatan is famous for its walls and drift diving, but I have always found that the best part of diving is not necessarily knowing what you are going to see.

It is discovering what you did not expect.

That happened on this dive.

The West End Wall produced several familiar Caribbean species, but one very small fish turned the dive into something I will remember for a long time.

DiveLog:

Marine Life of the Roatan West End Wall

One of the best things about scuba diving in Roatan is the variety of marine life you can encounter on a single dive.

The West End Wall gave me a nice cross-section of Caribbean reef life, from venomous predators to crustaceans and reef fish.

But one species was particularly special.

Lionfish (Pterois): Beautiful, Venomous and Delicious

Lionfish (Pterois) Filmed at Phi Phi Island in Thailand

Lionfish are among the most recognizable fish in the Caribbean.

Their long, flowing fins and dramatic stripes make them beautiful to watch. They are also venomous, and those impressive spines can deliver a very painful sting.

There is an important distinction between venomous and poisonous.

A venomous animal delivers its toxin through something such as a spine, bite, or sting. A poisonous animal is harmful when it is eaten or otherwise absorbed.

Lionfish are venomous, but their flesh is edible when properly prepared.

Preparing lionfish safely begins with removing the venomous spines. The spines can be carefully cut away with shears, leaving the body of the fish and its edible flesh. Once the venomous spines have been removed, the fish can be cooked in many of the same ways as other fish.

Blackened.

Fried.

Baked.

Grilled.

Stuffed.

Ceviche.

I have enjoyed lionfish prepared many different ways, including stuffed with crab meat, blackened fillets, ceviche, and fried nuggets.

Lionfish is delicious.

I know that because I have had lionfish many times, prepared in all of these different ways. The meat is tender and flaky, and to me, lionfish is truly one of the most delicious fish you can eat.

There is also an important ecological reason for eating them.

Lionfish are not native to the Caribbean. They have established populations throughout the Caribbean and western Atlantic, where they prey on native reef fish and other small marine animals.

That has created a serious problem for Caribbean reef ecosystems.

Encouraging people to catch and eat lionfish gives divers and fishermen another reason to remove them from the reef. Many Caribbean destinations have embraced lionfish as a food source, turning an invasive predator into something that can end up on the dinner table.

So when I see one underwater, I appreciate the fish from a safe distance.

Those spines are definitely not something you want to grab.

But once properly handled and the venomous spines have been removed, that same fish can become a fantastic meal.

Juvenile Smooth Trunkfish (Lactophrys triqueter)

Close-up of a juvenile smooth trunk fish with glowing white dots in the ocean, beside a coral reef!
Juvenile smooth trunkfish (Lactophrys triqueter) photographed while scuba diving at the West End Wall in Roatan

This was the fish that made the dive special for me.

At first glance, it is easy to understand why someone might simply call it a boxfish. Smooth trunkfish belong to the boxfish family and have a rigid, box-shaped body protected by a bony outer structure.

But this particular fish was a juvenile smooth trunkfish (Lactophrys triqueter).

And I had never seen one before.

I have been diving for 28 years, and this was the first time I had ever encountered the juvenile form.

In Roatan, these tiny juvenile trunkfish are sometimes referred to as “the pea” or “dice fish.”

Once you see one, those names make perfect sense.

They are tiny, roughly a centimeter across, with a dark, almost spherical body covered in bright yellow spots.

The little fish looks less like a conventional reef fish and more like someone dropped a tiny spotted marble into the ocean.

Then it starts moving.

Because of its rigid, box-like body, the juvenile trunkfish has a rather unusual way of getting around. It hovers and wiggles around the coral, changing direction and spinning in ways that make it look like a miniature underwater helicopter whose pilot has misplaced the instruction manual.

It is a wonderfully strange little creature.

The adult smooth trunkfish looks very different. As the fish matures, its coloration changes and the dramatic juvenile pattern gives way to the appearance associated with adult smooth trunkfish.

The juvenile I encountered was incredibly small compared with the adults I have seen over the years.

That made the encounter even more remarkable.

After 28 years of diving, I have seen a lot of fish.

But I had never seen this one.

That is one of the reasons I love scuba diving.

You can make hundreds or thousands of dives and still encounter something completely new.

Sometimes the discovery is a large animal.

Sometimes it is something spectacular.

And sometimes it is a tiny spotted pea spinning around a coral head like a miniature underwater helicopter.

I will take all three.

Caribbean Spiny Lobster (Panulirus argus)

The Caribbean spiny lobster is another familiar resident of the reefs around Roatan.

Unlike the American lobster, the Caribbean spiny lobster does not have the large claws associated with lobsters from colder waters. Instead, it has long antennae and a heavily armored body.

Those antennae are often the first thing you notice when one is hiding in a reef crevice.

Spiny lobsters spend much of their time sheltering around rocks, coral formations, and other structures. Their armored bodies provide protection while their antennae help them sense what is happening around them.

Finding one during a dive is always a welcome sight.

It is another reminder that the reef is much more than colorful coral and tropical fish. There is an entire community of animals living within the cracks, holes, and shadows.

Schoolmaster Snapper (Lutjanus apodus)

Two Schoolmaster Snapper  (Lutjanus apodus) with yellow tails swim over a dark rocky reef.
Schoolmaster Snapper (Lutjanus apodus)

The schoolmaster snapper is another classic Caribbean reef fish.

Schoolmasters are commonly associated with reefs and other underwater structures where they can find food and shelter. Their markings make them recognizable once you become familiar with Caribbean fish species.

I encountered a schoolmaster snapper moving through the reef during this dive.

Snapper are important predators within Caribbean reef ecosystems, and they are also

Caribbean King Crab and spiny lobster

popular food fish throughout the region.

Seeing one underwater gives you another glimpse into the interconnected nature of the reef.

Every fish has a place.

Every crevice can hold something.

And the longer you look, the more you find.

Caribbean King Crab (Maguimithrax spinosissimus)

Underwater crab with bright blue claws on a rocky seabed, lit in blue and orange tones.
Caribbean King Crab (Maguimithrax spinosissimus) at the West End Wall in Roatan

The Caribbean king crab, also known as the Caribbean spider crab, was another interesting discovery along the West End Wall.

Its scientific name is Maguimithrax spinosissimus, and it is associated with rocky and coral reef environments.

With its long legs and heavily armored body, this crab looks almost prehistoric when you encounter one tucked into the reef.

It is also one of the largest brachyuran crabs found in the western Atlantic.

Like many reef creatures, it can disappear surprisingly well into the structure despite its size.

Spotting one is always worth slowing down for.

Underwater, patience pays.

Diving Inside the Roatán Marine Park

The waters around Roatan are part of the Bay Islands National Marine Park, with the Roatán Marine Park helping protect the reefs and marine life around the island.

For divers, that matters.

The park uses moorings rather than allowing boats to anchor on coral and seagrass, helping reduce damage to the reef. Divers and snorkelers also encounter conservation rules designed to protect important marine species and the reef itself.

There is also a voluntary $10 Roatán Marine Park conservation fee, which helps support marine protection and management efforts.

When you spend time underwater looking at a reef like this, conservation stops being an abstract idea.

You can see exactly what is being protected.

The coral.

The sponges.

The fish.

The turtles.

The small creatures hiding in the reef.

All of it is connected.

And all of it is worth protecting.

A Caribbean Dive Filled With Small Discoveries

What I remember most about this dive is not one enormous animal or dramatic event.

It was the collection of smaller discoveries.

A lionfish hovering over the reef.

A Caribbean spiny lobster hiding in the coral.

A schoolmaster snapper moving through the structure.

A Caribbean king crab tucked into the reef.

And then that tiny juvenile smooth trunkfish.

After 28 years of diving, seeing a fish for the first time is something I never take for granted.

It is easy to think that experienced divers have already seen everything.

The ocean has a very effective way of correcting that assumption.

There is always another species.

Another behavior.

Another tiny creature hiding somewhere you have never looked closely enough before.

That is what keeps scuba diving interesting.

Dinner at Beachers West Bay After a Day of Diving

After a full day of scuba diving, I am usually ready to eat.

We headed to Beachers West Bay for dinner, right on West Bay Beach.

The location was perfect. After spending hours underwater, sitting near the Caribbean with a good meal in front of me was exactly what I needed.

We started with the coconut shrimp.

And these were not ordinary coconut shrimp.

They were the best coconut shrimp I have ever had.

After a long day of diving, we absolutely crushed them.

For the main course, I had a Honduran-style fried yellowtail snapper served with delicious plantains, rice, and beans.

The snapper was excellent.

The fried exterior had a satisfying crunch while the fish inside remained tender and flaky. The plantains added a little sweetness, and the rice and beans turned the whole plate into exactly the kind of meal a hungry diver wants after spending the day underwater.

And I ate all of it.

Every last bite.

The yellowtail snapper also brought back a memory from a previous trip to Belize, where I had an excellent yellowtail snapper at Chef Karim's.

That Belize experience is worth remembering because the two meals showed just how differently a good piece of yellowtail snapper can be prepared while still letting the fish itself shine.

The Honduran-style preparation at Beachers West Bay was every bit as satisfying.

There is something particularly rewarding about a meal after diving.

You spend hours exploring the underwater world, breathing from a tank and swimming through the reef. Then you sit down to a plate of fresh fish, plantains, rice, and beans.

It fills you up.

And after a good day underwater, that is exactly what you want.

Why West Bay Beach and Roatan Are Worth Visiting

Roatan brings together two things that are hard to beat.

Beautiful Caribbean beaches above the surface.

And an incredible underwater world below it.

West Bay Beach is a great place to experience the island from the surface. The beach is beautiful, the water is clear, and there are plenty of restaurants and activities nearby.

For scuba divers, the western end of Roatan offers access to some excellent Caribbean reef diving.

You can spend the morning exploring coral reefs and marine life, spend the afternoon relaxing on West Bay Beach, and finish the day with fresh seafood and a cold drink.

That is a pretty good Caribbean vacation.

For me, the appeal of Roatan is that the island does not require you to choose between adventure and relaxation.

You can have both.

Final Thoughts on the Roatan West End Wall Dive

The West End Wall gave me exactly what I hope for from a Caribbean scuba dive.

Clear water.

Beautiful reef structure.

Interesting marine life.

And an unexpected discovery.

The juvenile smooth trunkfish was the highlight for me.

After 28 years of diving, seeing a fish I had never encountered before was a great reminder that there are still plenty of firsts waiting beneath the surface.

That is what keeps me diving.

You never really know what will be around the next corner.

The West End Wall, West Bay Beach, and the surrounding waters of Roatan are full of those possibilities.

Sometimes the highlight is a large animal.

Sometimes it is a beautiful coral formation.

And sometimes it is a tiny fish that looks like a spotted pea and swims around like a malfunctioning miniature helicopter.

For me, this dive was about that little fish.

And I would happily do the entire dive again just to see it one more time.

Roatan West End Wall Dive Details

Dive Site: West End Wall

Location: Roatan, Honduras

Area: The Point / West End

Beach: West Bay Beach

Resort: Las Rocas Resort and Dive Center

Dive Type: Wall / drift dive

Conditions: Current can vary depending on location and conditions

Experience: Intermediate to advanced depending on conditions and route

Marine Park: Bay Islands National Marine Park / Roatán Marine Park

Featured Marine Life: Lionfish, juvenile smooth trunkfish (Lactophrys triqueter), Caribbean spiny lobster (Panulirus argus), schoolmaster snapper (Lutjanus apodus), Caribbean king crab (Maguimithrax spinosissimus)

Video: Roatan West End Wall Scuba Diving | Caribbean Reef Diving, Marine Life & Underwater 4K

Footage: 4K underwater scuba diving footage

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